What is a Knit Shirt?
I recently learned that the first T-shirt was born in the 19th century when someone decided to cut in half his one-piece union suit, the undergarment of choice in those days. To the wielder of those scissors, I say thank you.
Since then, the T-shirt has become a truly universal garment. From its beginnings as an undershirt for miners, farmers, longshoremen, and troops to its celebrity-inspired mass appeal as the uniform of cool (a la Marlon Brando, James Dean, even Marilyn Monroe), the T-shirt has always fit right in.
Every modern decade has integrated the T-shirt into its trends. Sure, slight alterations have been made here and there (in the 80s it was all off-the-shoulder Flashdance; in the 90s it was all down-to-the-thighs Snoop Dogg ), but it always comes back to the basic, ever-so-classic, white, “T”-shaped shirt.
While of course T-shirts are typically made of cotton, I couldn’t resist the brillant white and lustrous sheen of Habu’s fingering weight 100% Bamboo. It’s magically cool to the touch and has a drape that’s both casual and elegant. I also couldn’t resist adding my own little alteration: an optional breast pocket that provides an opportunity for a POP of color, knit here in Koigu’s intensely saturated hand-dyed Koigu Premium Merino.
I know I’ll wear this piece for years, since there’s no chance of it going out of fashion. Perhaps one day paired with jeans, the next with a long, flowing, fanciful skirt. The T-shirt, it’s lasted the test of time, it knows no bounds! -Laura
Materials
- Main Color (MC): 2 skeins of Habu’s 20/12 Bamboo, 100% bamboo. This is the color White. For Habu’s Dyed Bamboo options, click here. If you wish to substitute a different yarn, you will need 765 (880, 990, 1100, 1200) yards.
- Stitch marker
- Stitch holder or scrap yarn
Gauge
6 1/4 stitches = 1 inch in stockinette stitch
Sizes
Small (Medium, Large, XLarge, XXLarge)
- Finished Bust Circumference: 34 1/2 (38 1/2, 42 1/4, 45, 50) inches
- Length from Underarm to Bottom Edge: 16 (16 1/2, 16 1/2, 17, 17) inches
- Sleeve Length from Underarm to Cuff: 2 1/2 (2 3/4, 3, 3 1/4, 3 1/2) inches
- Sleeve Circumference at Cuff: 11 1/2 (12 1/2, 13 1/2, 14 1/2, 15 1/4) inches
Body
Using the 24- or 32-inch circular needle and MC, cast on 216 (240, 264, 288, 312) stitches.
Place a marker and join for working in the round, being careful to not twist the stitches.
Knit 1 round.
Purl 1 round.
Knit 4 rounds.
Continue in stockinette stitch, knitting each round, until the piece measures 16 (16 1/2, 16 1/2, 17, 17) inches from cast-on edge, or desired length to underarm.
Divide for Front and Back
Bind off 12 (16, 20, 24, 28) stitches, k95 (103, 111, 199, 127), place previous 96 (104, 112, 120, 128) Front stitches on hold using an additional needle or scrap yarn, bind off the following 12 (16, 20, 24, 28) stitches, knit to end of row. [96 (104, 112, 120, 128) stitches for Back]
Shape Back Armholes
You will now be shaping the Back, working back and forth across the stitches in rows rather than in the round. The stitch counts in the following two sections do not include the Front stitches on hold.
Row 1 (wrong side): Bind off 4 stitches, purl to end of row. [92 (100, 108, 116, 124) stitches]
Row 2 (right side): Bind off 4 stitches, knit to end of row. [88 (96, 104, 112, 120) stitches]
Row 3: Purl.Row 4: K2, slip, slip, knit (ssk), knit to last 4 stitches, k2tog, k2. [2 stitches decreased]Repeat Rows 3 and 4 three (four, five, six, eight) more times. [80 (86, 92, 98, 102) stitches]
Continue working even in stockinette until armhole measures 6 1/2 (7, 71/2, 7 3/4, 8) inches, ending with a wrong side row.
Shape Back Shoulders
Row 1 (right side): Bind off 7 (7, 9, 9, 10) stitches, knit to end of row.Row 2 (wrong side): Bind off 7 (7, 9, 9, 10) stitches, purl to end of row.Row 3: Bind off 7 (8, 8, 9, 9) stitches, knit to end of row.Row 4: Bind off 7 (8, 8, 9, 9) stitches, purl to end of row.Repeat Rows 3 and 4 once more. [38 (40, 42, 44, 46) stitches]Next Row: Bind off remaining stitches.
Front
You will now be shaping the Front, working across the stitches you had previously put on hold. With wrong side facing, rejoin MC.
Shape Front Armholes
NOTE: Row 2 begins the Inset Pocket (optional); if you wish to work a pocket, go to “Row 2 With Pocket”. If you prefer not to work a pocket, go to “Row 2 Without Pocket”.
Row 2 With Pocket (right side): Bind off 4 stitches, k7 (10, 13, 13, 13, 16), p21 (21, 21, 23, 23) to create pocket turning row, turn work. Go to “Make Inset Pocket”.
Row 2 Without Pocket (right side): Bind off 4 stitches, knit to end of row. [88 (96, 104, 112, 120) stitches] Go to “Continue Shaping Front”.
Make Inset Pocket
You will now be working the Pocket on the 21 (21, 21, 23, 23) pocket stitches, using two double pointed needles. Leave the remaining 67 (75, 83, 89, 97) stitches unworked on the circular needle.
Row 1 (wrong side): Working on pocket stitches only, and using double pointed needles, p21 (21, 21, 23, 23.Row 2 (right side): K21 (21, 21, 23, 23).
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until the pocket measures 3 (3, 3, 3 1/2, 3 1/2) inches, ending with Row 2.
Cut working yarn, leaving a 6-inch tail.
With CC, repeat Rows 1 and 2 until the pocket measures 6 (6, 6, 7, 7) inches, ending with Row 2.
Cut CC yarn, leaving a 6-inch tail.Slip the pocket stitches onto the right-hand end of the circular needle.
Rejoin MC, leaving a tail long enough to sew the sides of the pocket, and continue working in stockinette across to the end of the Front.
Continue Shaping Front Armholes
Row 1 (wrong side): Purl.
Row 2 (right side): K2, ssk, knit to last 4 stitches, k2tog, k2. [2 stitches decreased]
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 three (four, five, six, eight) more times. [80 (86, 92, 89, 102) stitches]
Continue working even in stockinette until armhole measures 3 (3 1/2, 4, 4 1/4, 4 1/2) inches, ending with a wrong-side row.
Next Row (right side): K30 (32, 34, 36, 37), bind off the next 20 (22, 24, 26, 28) stitches, knit to end of row. [60 (64, 68, 72, 74) total stitches: 30 (32, 34, 36, 37) stitches for right side of Front, 30 (32, 34, 36, 37) stitches for left side of Front]